Honing basics
A simplistic way to look at honing is to say that we move the razor up and down a hone in order to have the steel at the bevel converge at a point that is very small. That is what we do when we are honing. This in itself won't produce a "good shave", but at the correct angle it will produce a bevel that will cut hair.
Setting the bevel
Setting the bevel on your razor is the single most important step to getting a good shave. Setting the bevel is different from restoration of the razors edge. Restoring the razors edge needs to be done before you set the bevel. If you do not set the bevel correctly you will not get a good shave from your razor. Setting the bevel requires the use of a coarse stone that is suitable for a straight razor. I prefer using a fine diamond hone, around 1000 grit. I also have a soft Arkansas for this job.
At this stage I like to put a layer of standard electrical tape on the spine to protect it from excessive scratching/hone wear. The use of tape is highly debatable and isn't something I am going to discuss in this page. If you would like to discuss by email please feel free. When moving the hone across the stone, the cutting edge leads, and the razor spine and edge must be totally in contact with the stone.
The amount of pressure you use can be great at this stage, but it must be relatively equal. If it is not equal you will end with an uneven bevel. There are advanced techniques which can be used in which you use differing amounts of pressure on your razor, but these are for after you hone more simple razors.
At this stage I like to put a layer of standard electrical tape on the spine to protect it from excessive scratching/hone wear. The use of tape is highly debatable and isn't something I am going to discuss in this page. If you would like to discuss by email please feel free. When moving the hone across the stone, the cutting edge leads, and the razor spine and edge must be totally in contact with the stone.
The amount of pressure you use can be great at this stage, but it must be relatively equal. If it is not equal you will end with an uneven bevel. There are advanced techniques which can be used in which you use differing amounts of pressure on your razor, but these are for after you hone more simple razors.
Refining the bevel
I use a hard/fine Arkansas hone to refine the bevel grit sizes on natural stones are inconsistent, but it is around 1000-3000 grit. I consider bevel refinement almost as important as setting the bevel itself. I spend a long while ensuring the scratches from the previous stage are removed from the razor's bevel, removing the scratches from the previous stage is a part of ensuring a superior shave. You can use a jewelers loupe or microscope to magnify the bevel so you can view this stage.
Polishing the bevel and the double bevel
Polishing the bevel is what gives you the smooth shave you love so much. It is at this stage that I introduce a second psudo-bevel. I first begin polishing on the translucent Arkansas hone, Next I add 2 layers of electrical tape to change the amount of bevel in contact with the hone. then I polish the bevel by honing on stones from 6000 grit - 12000 grit. My first polishing stone is a translucent Arkansas, grit size around 6000-8000. I chose this stone because of it's all around performance, and because it is very hard and slow cutting. This stone is especially good on razors with very hard steel, such as the old sheffield razors.
Next in line is a man-made 10000 grit hone made by Ohishi, I use this man-made stone to have a constant in the polishing stage. I create a slurry on this stone and hone by dilution, which means you spray water onto your slurry over time and continue to hone. This creates a hazy edge that is a delight to shave from.
My final hone is a natural slate stone that has grit range from around 12000-16000. I use this hone because of it's hard and slow cutting properties. I believe a slower stone produces a better shave and a more refined edge. I use the same slurry dilution method on this stone.
Next in line is a man-made 10000 grit hone made by Ohishi, I use this man-made stone to have a constant in the polishing stage. I create a slurry on this stone and hone by dilution, which means you spray water onto your slurry over time and continue to hone. This creates a hazy edge that is a delight to shave from.
My final hone is a natural slate stone that has grit range from around 12000-16000. I use this hone because of it's hard and slow cutting properties. I believe a slower stone produces a better shave and a more refined edge. I use the same slurry dilution method on this stone.
Strop refinement
I continue to refine the shaving edge on my strop system. I begin to strop on a latigo leather strop impregnated with 0.5 micron diamond paste, this refines the bevel even further. Next I use a strop impregnated with 0.25 micron diamond paste, and finally I move onto a plain leather strop. This is my version of a superior shave.
Why a double bevel?
I have been asked a few times why I use a double bevel for my honing method. I have experimented with this over time and have found that my razors seem to need honing less frequently, and the initial shaving edge feels superior to a single bevel. This is one's own opinion and others may find different results. If you do I would love to hear from you.